When it comes to skin, collagen is the main structural component of the
dermis, our inner-layer of skin. It is produced by cells, called
fibroblasts, which are found scattered throughout the dermis, and it
controls the strength, structure, firmness and overall appearance of our
skin.
As the aging process begins, cellular proteins hook together or change
shape. This prevents the proteins from performing their functions,
resulting in a loss of collagen, and thus firmness, in the skin and body
tissue. Stimulating skin cells to produce collagen can partially
reverse this process, reducing wrinkles and improving the skin’s
texture. But while one might thus conclude that simply adding collagen
to the skin will improve our skin’s health and beauty, things are
unfortunately more complicated than that.
What exactly is Collagen?
Collagen is a fibrous protein found in our skin, bones, cartilage,
tendons, and other connective tissues. Unlike most proteins, which are
essentially comprised of clumps of molecules, collagen, in its maturity,
becomes a mesh of fibers, rich in amino acids lysine, proline,
hydroxylysine and hydroxyproline.
A variety of types of collagen exist in varying quantities in almost all
of our organs. When using collagen to enhance the appearances of our
skin, we must thus take into consideration not only the amount, but also
the type of collagen we choose.
| Important Types of Collagen |
|---|
| Type I | The most prevalent type, located in
our tendons, bones, skin, and other tissues, particularly scars. |
| Types
II, IX, X & XI | Merely cartilage, located in various
places throughout our bodies. |
| Type III | Found
in quickly-growing tissue, such as that found in wounds in the early
stages of repair, and is often replaced later on by the stronger and
tougher Type I collagen. |
| Type IV | The
filtration membrane of our capillaries, known as basal lamina. |
| Types
V and VI | Similar to Type I, and generally are not found
without it, providing support to normal Type I collagen functions. |
| Type
VII | Known as epithelia and it lines various tracts of our
body, such as the GI and urinary tracts. |
| Type VIII | Lines
our blood vessels. |
| Type XII | Interacts
with Types I and III collagen, and can always be found alongside them. |
Types I and III collagen are the most prevalent in our skin, controlling
most of our skin’s mechanical properties. Though other types of
collagen are less abundant in our skin, and often play a less clear,
more supportive role to types I and III collagen, each type serves an
important function in the maintenance of our skin.
How does Collagen Affect Aging?
As we age, collagen levels throughout our bodies decrease. As children,
our skin is rich in Type III collagen, accounting for the soft,
suppleness. Although Type III collagen growth slows with time, Type I
growth begins to increase, building up until the age of thirty-five,
when the skin reaches its peak strength and health. After this point,
Type I collagen levels also begin to decline. While the exact effects of
the other types of collagen on our aging process are unclear, we do
know that by the age of sixty, the levels of all of our collagen types
have significantly dropped.
It is important to understand the different types and growth cycles of
collagen in our bodies. Since different substances affect the diverse
types of collagen in varying ways, some collagen boosters are more
appropriate for collagen synthesis than others. As we select skin care
products and regimens, it is important to take into consideration our
unique collagen levels to try to bring them up to an optimal composition
balance. While collagen composition analyses is a relatively new
process, still only available in advanced research facilities, and the
effects of most skin treatments remain unclear, a great deal of research
is underway and should be available to the consumer market in the near
future.
In the mean time, we do know that vitamin C is essential for the
synthesis of collagen, dramatically increasing growth and reducing skin
damage caused by free radicals with its powerful antioxidant properties.
So How Can I Use Collagen to Improve my Skin?
High collagen levels alone, or even an optimal balance of collagen
types, will not produce a more youthful appearance. Using collagen
freshly produced by young, healthy fibroblasts, and using it in the
right places, is key.
Wrinkles and other skin imperfections are often caused by damage from
smoking, UV rays, free radicals, and a defective glucose metabolism.
This damages collagen, distorting its makeup and leading to bad skin
texture and skin impurities. Procedures such as skin peels and laser
treatments are common to treat damaged collagen, to stimulate the
production of new collagen. Some skin care products also boast of the
same capabilities.
Synthesis vs. degradation
Our skin is a living organ, engaged in a constant cycle of repair and
regeneration. Although the rate of collagen breakdown significantly
increases after forty, and collagen production ins highest in our
earlier years, new collagen is generated throughout our lives. Taking
measures to boost your collagen production and reduce breakdown is
important to maintain a healthy collagen balance in older skin.
Since Types I and III are the most prevalent types of collagen in the
skin, many remedies, including topically applied vitamin C, have been
proven to simulate the regeneration of these types. More information
about the effects of vitamin C, as well as other collagen boosting
agents, can be found in the anti-aging treatments section of our site,
as well as in the skin rejuvenation info pack.
The breakdown of collagen is a natural process, just like its
production. While the natural breakdown of necessary structural proteins
seems destructive, the elimination of collagen can be positive. When
collagen is badly damaged, or in the case of inflammation, irritation or
an infection, collagen breakdown rapidly increases.
In addition to the natural aging process, external factors such as UV
rays from the sun, smoking, and chlorinated water also have the effect
of rapidly increasing collagen breakdown, causing the skin to sag and
wrinkle. Avoiding exposure to these things will help maintain your
collagen levels.
Collagen
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